Historic Wickford Village,
North Kingstown, Rhode Island
Historic Wickford is the original town center of North Kingstown, Rhode Island, and it is a place where time seems to have stopped in the 1820s. In Wickford, the visitor finds what is said to be the densest concentration of original late Revolutionary and Federal period houses anywhere in New England.
Wickford was established in 1663. Originally, much of the village was on an island, but that island has long since been attached to the main land.
Wickford's most famous native is the renowned novelist, John Updike, a descendant of one of the village's founders, and it is generally agreed that Wickford provides the setting for his popular novel, "The Witches of Eastwick". (The movie that was based on the book, however, was not made in Wickford.)
The oldest surviving building in Wickford is the historic Old Narragansett Church, which was built in 1707 and moved to Wickford in 1800. The building, which is located on Church Lane, is unaltered structurally and has retained almost all of its original fixtures, including the altar silver, sent to the parish by Queen Anne in 1708. The church also possesses a rare English chamber organ, built in the 1680s or 1690s and attributed to the legendary British organ builder Bernard ("Father") Smith, who built the original organ in London's St. Paul Cathedral. The Old Narragansett Church is open to visitors on July and August weekends, and it is the site of special services throughout the year.
The Old Narragansett Church
(1707)
Most visitors to Wickford first see The Old Narragansett Church from The Greeneway, a flagstone path from Main Street. Many of the flagstones are incised with the important dates in the Church's history and a list of the Canons who have served the parish in the nearly 300 years since its founding.
The Old Narragansett Church, seen from The
Greeneway
The Old Narragansett Church is not the only historic church in the village by any means. The Baptist Church, which was built in 1816, is a superb example of the reserved neo-classical style that prevailed in New England at the time.
The Baptist Church, Wickford, Rhode Island
(1816)
Since the middle of the 19th century, regular Episcopal services in the village have been held at St. Paul's, which, even though it is a century and a quarter old, is nonetheless one of the "newest" buildings in the historic district.
St. Paul's Church, Main Street, Wickford,
Rhode Island
Almost directly across Main Street from St. Paul's Church is Wickford House, once a renowned inn and hostelry but now a private residence. Built on land that originally belonged to the daughter of one of Wickford's founders, Wickford House dates back, at least in part, to the 1740s, and, as such, is one of the oldest surviving dwellings in the village. (In fact, many old timers say that portions of the house date from much earlier, perhaps to 1712, which would make it the oldest extant house in the village.) Wickford House also has gorgeous flower gardens, which have long been the starting point of the renowned "Hidden Gardens of Wickford" self-directed walking tour, sponsored each summer by Historic Wickford, the local preservation society.
Wickford House, Wickford, Rhode Island (ca.
1740, with later additions)
What is generally acknowledged and considered to be the oldest extant dwelling in the village of Wickford is the house familiarly known as "Old Yellow". The major portion of the house was built in 1733. Old Yellow had fallen on hard times, and was in danger of collapse or demolition when a group of concerned Wickford residents formed a consortium to save it.
The fabric and structure of Old Yellow have been repaired, and the outside has been restored to its historic appearance. The interior, which retains much of its original woodwork, paneling, and other features, awaits a sensitive new owner for completion.
Old Yellow (1733, with later
additions)
The concerned citizen who spearheaded the successful effort to rescue Old Yellow has also restored and has lived for many years in another Wickford landmark, the Old Narragansett Bank, built in 1845. This magnificent neo-classical interpretation of a traditional New England colonial house plan is also one of the "newer" buildings in Wickford's historic district. When it was new, it was part residence and part bank; the sign above the left-hand ground floor windows is the original one, restored to its rightful place by the house's current owners.
The Old Narragansett Bank, Wickford, Rhode
Island (1845)
Across Main Street from the old Narragansett Bank is Applejack Farm, built in 1804 by Benjamin Reynolds, a member of one of Wickford's founding families and an important merchant and real estate developer in the village in his day. Applejack Farm is typical of the two story, center chimney colonial houses that line the streets of the historic district of Wickford.
Applejack Farm, Wickford, Rhode Island (1804)
Applejack Farm is famous for its display of spring bulbs, a particular passion of the house's current owner, an avid gardener. Here is a photo of the gardens at Applejack Farm as they look in late April.
The gardens at Applejack Farm, Wickford, Rhode
Island,
at the zenith of the spring bulb season, 1996
What the visitor sees when looking down Main Street from Applejack Farm is typical of the streets of the historic district of Wickford. Here is the view across the street, looking back towards St. Paul's:
A View down Main Street towards St.
Paul's
And here is the view down the street from the middle of the intersection of Mains Street and Fowler Street. Applejack Farm is on the right; the old Narragansett Bank is on the left.
Looking down Main Street from the intersection
with Fowler Street
Here is the view down a Wickford Village side street; this is the beginning of Bay Street, which runs along the north bank of the cove. Old Yellow is on the left.
Looking down Bay Street from Main
Street
And here is the view down Church Lane, from its intersection with Main Street:
The View down Church Lane
Main Street ends at the Village Dock, from which many of the local lobsterfishermen set out onto Narragansett Bay to set their traps and harvest their catch. Here is the north side of the foot of Main Street; the Dock is off to the right.
The Foot of Main Street
The building in the distance is the location of a top flight local fish market, owned and operated by a Wickford native, Rob Johnston.
Most of the fish sold at Champlin's of Wickford is caught by local lobstermen and fishermen, and, believe me, it is fresh, delicious, and reasonably priced. You will also find that Rob and his staff are freindly and accomodating, to say the least. If you happen to meet Rob, by all means ask him to tell you about the time that he and I ended up sampling oysters that had just been off-loaded at the dock beside the shop!
Next is the view back towards Main Street from the village dock. The Victorian mansion on the right is, fittingly, called "End-O-Main". The east end of Old Yellow, which now is painted white, as it was originally, is straight ahead.
A View from the Village Dock, Wickford, Rhode
Island
Main Street begins at the intersection of Brown Street, which is the heart of the Village's business district.
The intersection of Main Street and Brown
Street, Wickford, Rhode Island
Here is the view down Main Street, towards the Village Dock, from the same vantage point.
The view down Main Street from the intersection
with Brown Street
Updike Park, which was recently redesigned and relandscaped, occupies one corner of the intersection.
Updike Park, Wickford, Rhode
Island
Here is a view of the intersection from Updike Park.
Yet another view of the intersection of Main
Street and Brown Street
A number of interesting shops and businesses are located on this stretch of Main Street. Among them is Moore Properties, to many the premier real estate brokerage in the area.
Most of the stores, shops, and boutiques in Wickford, however, are located on Brown Street.
The view down Brown Street from the
intersection with Main Street
Some of these stores are family owned and have been around a long time. The most venerable of these old family businesses is Ryan's Market, a legend far and wide. Established in 1886, this extraordinary "little" grocery store has always been at the same location; it is famous for the quality of its meat and its produce and unique for the warm, personal service provided by its loyal, outgoing staff. Now in the hands of the 4th and 5th generations of the founding family (with members of the 6th bagging groceries and stocking shelves after school), Ryan's is also a neighborhood gathering place, where the conversation at the meat counter or in the produce department is lively and enthusiastic.
Ryan's Market, 70 Brown Street, Wickford, Rhode
Island
Although it recently changed hands, another established and well-loved local business is The Book Garden, which is located on the ground floor of the late 19th century building that stands on the corner of Main Street and Brown Street, opposite Updike Park. The bookstore's charming owner Melissa presides over this lovely and friendly establishment; she sells flowers, plants and gardening supplies in addition to both new and used books.
The little white building next door to The Book Garden is home to The Place, one of Wickford's newest businesses. The verdict is mixed on the grinders (Iam one of those who happen to thin that they are excellent), but all agree that the pizzas are spectacular! Crisp crusts, not oily, and made with the freshest ingredients. And they deliver (locally, of course!)
The Book Garden and The Place
The 1998 "Hidden Gardens of Wickford" self-directed walking tour will be held on Sunday, June 21.
On Sunday, March 21, Historic Wickford will be presenting a lecture by the noted horitculturist and television personality, Roger Swain, in tandem with demonstrations and presentations by representatives of local nurseries like Bald Hill Nurseries and Schartner Farms.
For further information about these and other Historic Wickford sponsored events and to obtain a copy of a brochure sketching the history of the village and describing the goal and activities of Historic Wickford, Inc., please write to:
"Hidden Gardens of Wickford"
c/o Historic
Wickford, Inc.
P. O. Box 261
North Kingstown, RI 02852
Please enclose a stamped, self-addressed envelope for the reply.
The cover of the Historic Wickford, Inc.,
brochure
Another highlight of the summer in Wickford (and, despite the best efforts of both the Town of North Kingstown and the Wickford Art Association, an absolute nightmare for almost all who live or have businesses in its midst) is The Wickford Art Festival, which is held on the first full weekend after Independence Day. Dozens of artists and artisans display work of all kinds in temporary kiosks that line the streets of much of the historic district and adjacent neighborhoods.
The locals, residents and merchants alike, brace themselves for this undeniably popular (but hair-raising and nerve racking) event and either flee for the weekend or "go with the flow", like this pair of historic district denizens, photographed while enjoying a brief period of well-earned repose during the 1996 Festival.
And now, a group of links to other internet sites, official and unofficial, that will be of interest to those intrigued by historic Wickford Village:
The Official Home Page of North Kingstown, Rhode Island
The Official Home Page of the North Kingstown, Rhode Island, Chamber of Commerce
The Official Home Page of South County, Rhode Island
North Kingstown, RI, Weather, from The Weather Channel
Weather Radar for Providence, RI, and environs, from Intellicast
The Providence Journal-Bulletin
Rhode Island Foghorn On-Line Magazine
Rhode Island Bestlinx Home Page (It is as described!)
The Historic Kingston, Rhode Island, Railroad Station (Built in 1875)
Historic Deerfield (another magnificent throwback to the 18th century)
The Historic Wickford home page is under construction on an on-going basis. What is presently shown here is but a fraction of the beautiful and interesting things to be found in what some have called the Venice of New England. Please check back from time to time for additions to the page. Eventually, once I get around to it (and, PLEASE, will someone send me one of those needlepoint pillows!), you will be able to get a look at the aptly named Pleasant Street, Updike House, The World Store, Askham & Telham, the Hussey Bridge, Christie and Colleen Mercurio's wonderful antique shop, located in The Old Theatre, and many other interesting sites, attractions, and stores in Wickford.
Photos and text, copyright 1995 - 1998, HV Productions; all rights reserved.
Historic Wickford brochure, copyright 1997, Historic Wickford, Inc.
Service Marks and Trademarks of Businesses illustrated are protected as provided by Federal and State law.This is a privately produced and funded photographic tour of the historic village of Wickford, Rhode Island, and it is neither sponsored nor underwritten by any organization, corporation, or government entity.